Heritage and History on the Mediterranean
Last year, my husband became quite motivated to get us all to Greece. He has always been enthusiastic about his Greek heritage. In our dating years, we read the Palaces of Knossos, we cracked red eggs on Greek Easter, and we prepared for our nuptials by watching "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" and learning the official Zorba dance, thanks to Father Dimitri of the local Orthodox Church. It made sense that after more than 10 years together, it was time to visit the homeland. Birthplace of Zeus, the Olympics, and souvlaki. After a lot of research, Chris and I decided that Crete would be a great place to introduce the boys to their Greek heritage, while taking some much needed vacation time at the beach.
Chania, a captivating start to our summer adventure
After a tiny little passport situation (make sure you are beyond 6 months of expiration) and almost 24 hours of travel, we found ourselves in the charming city of Chania, located in Crete's northwest corner. Colorful alleyways adorned with vibrant bougainvillea slope gently toward Chania's iconic centerpiece, the Old Venetian Harbour.
As we recovered from jet lag, we spent our time meandering the cobblestone streets, shopping for sandals, and savoring delicious platters of langoustines and octopus. We also used Chania as a home base to explore the western region of the island, known for world-famous beaches such as Falassarna, Balos, and Elafonisi.
Accommodations: Residenza Vranas | Restaurant Pick: Pallas | Favorite Beach: Elafonisi
Gramvousa + Balos
One of the highlights during our time in Chania was a private boat trip to the island of Gramvousa and Balos Beach. In 1579, the Venetians built a fort to defend against Ottoman invaders. It eventually failed, of course, but the steep trail to its ruins offers spectacular views of the crystalline water surrounding the island.
From the top, we could see all the way to Balos, where we would spend the afternoon snorkeling and paddle boarding. The private boat was advantageous because we arrived to the sites before the bigger tour boats, so we had the beaches pretty much to ourselves.
Mesa Lasithi, Crete's mountain treasure
Our next stop on Crete was an off-the-beaten-path choice, the mountain village of Mesa Lasithi, where mornings start with the sounds of rooster calls and goat bells. Life moves slower here. Since tourists usually just day-trip from the coastal towns, we had a peaceful few days away from the crowds. One morning, I woke early and hiked Havgas Gorge, located just across the valley floor from our AirBnb. Then only other hikers were some stray goats.
Mesa Lasithi proved to be a good home base for some important mythological sites on the island, including the aforementioned Palaces of Knossos and the Cave of Zeus. We also drove to the neighboring town of Kritsa, a picturesque village built amphitheatrically on a rock hill. Surrounded by olive groves and an important weaving center, Krista was where we picked up a lot of souvenir gifts to bring home to friends and family.
Accommodations: Lasithi Luxury Villa | Must-Do: Heraklion Archaeological Museum | Hike: Havgas Gorge
Wild Eastern Crete
Our final few days in Crete brought us to the wilder, more rugged part of the island. We home-based near Pachia Ammos, where we stayed at a unique home overlooking the Mediterranean. Day trips took us to the Ierapetra Farmer's Market, Galini Beach, and Monastiraki, where we found our favorite restaurant on the Island (linked below). We also braved the Richtis Gorge hike for a little change of scenery, and were rewarded with a dip in a beautiful little fairy pool below a gentle waterfall.
On our last day in Crete, we drove east through banana farms and goat fields to a very special corner of the island. Finally, Europe's largest palm forest came into view, and we descended to the spectacular golden sands of Vai. This was definitely one of our favorite beaches of the trip, and since we arrived at 9:30am, we had our pick of sun chairs. I could have stayed another week at this beach, but it was time for the last leg of our journey.
Restaurant Pick: Kapilion | Hike: Richtis Gorge | Beach: Vai
Istanbul
Since we were flying halfway across the world, we thought we might as well pop over to Istanbul. And since we were already going to Istanbul, we decided to squeeze in a trip to the ancient city of Ephesus. I was completely blown away by the grandeur of Istanbul's history and structures, so it made sense that it reminded me a bit of Rome. By staying in Sultanahmet, we were well-positioned to visit many of the sites by foot, including Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, and, of course, the Hagia Sofia. Our AirBnb host arranged many of the tours, including the day trip to Ephesus and the a birthday river boat on the Bosphorous.
Accommodations: No. 4 Vacation Home | Breakfast: Cigdem | Rugs: Alfombras de Estambul |
Hammam: Cagagloglu Hammam | Day Trip: Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary
