Heritage and History on the Mediterranean

Last year, my husband became quite motivated to get us all to Greece. He has always been enthusiastic about his Greek heritage. In our dating years, we read the Palaces of Knossos, we cracked red eggs on Greek Easter, and we prepared for our nuptials by watching "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" and learning the official Zorba dance, thanks to Father Dimitri of the local Orthodox Church. It made sense that after more than 10 years together, it was time to visit the homeland. Birthplace of Zeus, the Olympics, and souvlaki. After a lot of research, Chris and I decided that Crete would be a great place to introduce the boys to their Greek heritage, while taking some much needed vacation time at the beach.

Blond boy in Greek flag shirt stands by green door with potted plants in Crete, Greece.

Chania, a captivating start to our summer adventure

After a tiny little passport situation (make sure you are beyond 6 months of expiration) and almost 24 hours of travel, we found ourselves in the charming city of Chania, located in Crete's northwest corner. Colorful alleyways adorned with vibrant bougainvillea slope gently toward Chania's iconic centerpiece, the Old Venetian Harbour.

As we recovered from jet lag, we spent our time meandering the cobblestone streets, shopping for sandals, and savoring delicious platters of langoustines and octopus. We also used Chania as a home base to explore the western region of the island, known for world-famous beaches such as Falassarna, Balos, and Elafonisi.

Venetian lighthouse silhouette at golden sunset over calm harbor waters in Chania, Crete.
Young child stands in colorful narrow alleyway with yellow and orange walls in Crete.
Two children sit beneath ornate arched blue door on terracotta building in Crete, Greece.
Two hikers descend rocky coastal trail with stunning blue sea and island views in Crete.
Vibrant red Mediterranean building with blue arched door and colorful flower pot decorations.
Person paddleboarding on stunning turquoise waters at Balos Lagoon, Crete, Greece.
Young toddler sits in stone-framed doorway of rustic yellow building in Crete, Greece.
Blond child stands confidently on rocks gazing at turquoise sea waters in Crete, Greece.
Lush green vines and bougainvillea climbing yellow Mediterranean building facade in Crete.
A pink vintage food cart with balloons in a colorful Mediterranean town square with people strolling nearby.

Gramvousa + Balos


One of the highlights during our time in Chania was a private boat trip to the island of Gramvousa and Balos Beach. In 1579, the Venetians built a fort to defend against Ottoman invaders. It eventually failed, of course, but the steep trail to its ruins offers spectacular views of the crystalline water surrounding the island.


From the top, we could see all the way to Balos, where we would spend the afternoon snorkeling and paddle boarding. The private boat was advantageous because we arrived to the sites before the bigger tour boats, so we had the beaches pretty much to ourselves.

Stunning turquoise bay with rocky cliffs, purple wildflowers, and a mountain backdrop under clear blue skies.

Mesa Lasithi, Crete's mountain treasure

Our next stop on Crete was an off-the-beaten-path choice, the mountain village of Mesa Lasithi, where mornings start with the sounds of rooster calls and goat bells. Life moves slower here. Since tourists usually just day-trip from the coastal towns, we had a peaceful few days away from the crowds. One morning, I woke early and hiked Havgas Gorge, located just across the valley floor from our AirBnb. Then only other hikers were some stray goats.


Mesa Lasithi proved to be a good home base for some important mythological sites on the island, including the aforementioned Palaces of Knossos and the Cave of Zeus. We also drove to the neighboring town of Kritsa, a picturesque village built amphitheatrically on a rock hill. Surrounded by olive groves and an important weaving center, Krista was where we picked up a lot of souvenir gifts to bring home to friends and family.

Young blonde boy browsing colorful fresh produce in glass refrigerator cases at a modern grocery store.
Small child sitting on red steps surrounded by potted geraniums outside a Greek taverna with signs.
Weathered white building facade with two rustic green wooden doors in a Mediterranean village.
Colorful traditional embroidered slippers with pom-poms displayed on a rack at a market stall.
Lush green crop rows growing in a farm field with mountains and trees in the golden evening light.
Woman smiling beside a green door with lavender plants in a charming Mediterranean street.
Rustic home exterior with wooden door, laundry drying on a line, and vibrant flowering plants on a porch.
Father walking with two young children in a golden wheat field at sunset with mountains in background.
Charming white Mediterranean building entrance with lush tropical plants, bougainvillea, and a rustic arched door.
Young boy in orange sweater standing on rocky hilltop overlooking a scenic mountain valley at sunset.

Wild Eastern Crete

Our final few days in Crete brought us to the wilder, more rugged part of the island. We home-based near Pachia Ammos, where we stayed at a unique home overlooking the Mediterranean. Day trips took us to the Ierapetra Farmer's Market, Galini Beach, and Monastiraki, where we found our favorite restaurant on the Island (linked below). We also braved the Richtis Gorge hike for a little change of scenery, and were rewarded with a dip in a beautiful little fairy pool below a gentle waterfall.


On our last day in Crete, we drove east through banana farms and goat fields to a very special corner of the island. Finally, Europe's largest palm forest came into view, and we descended to the spectacular golden sands of Vai. This was definitely one of our favorite beaches of the trip, and since we arrived at 9:30am, we had our pick of sun chairs. I could have stayed another week at this beach, but it was time for the last leg of our journey.

Close-up of blooming pink oleander flowers with green leaves in natural outdoor setting.
Charming turquoise arched wooden door with ornate black hinges set in a stone Mediterranean wall.
Couple embracing under a waterfall in a turquoise natural pool surrounded by mossy rocks.
Colorful fresh vegetables including carrots and green beans displayed at an outdoor farmers market stall.
Grilled octopus tentacles served on a dark plate with greens and cucumber slices.
Top-down view of a spiky aloe plant with orange-tipped leaves in natural lighting.
Palm trees frame a sandy beach with straw umbrellas and turquoise sea beyond.
Aerial view of yellow pedal boat on crystal clear turquoise Mediterranean waters near rocky cliffs.
White building with teal doors surrounded by tall palm trees against a rocky hillside.
Aerial view of a person swimming in crystal clear turquoise sea near rocky coastal cliffs.
Aerial view of lone person sitting at the edge of clear turquoise water on sandy beach.

Istanbul

Since we were flying halfway across the world, we thought we might as well pop over to Istanbul. And since we were already going to Istanbul, we decided to squeeze in a trip to the ancient city of Ephesus. I was completely blown away by the grandeur of Istanbul's history and structures, so it made sense that it reminded me a bit of Rome. By staying in Sultanahmet, we were well-positioned to visit many of the sites by foot, including Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, and, of course, the Hagia Sofia. Our AirBnb host arranged many of the tours, including the day trip to Ephesus and the a birthday river boat on the Bosphorous.

Person in orange dress walking through sunlit arched courtyard colonnade of Blue Mosque Istanbul.
Child in red walks past ornate blue Iznik tiled facade with arched windows in Turkish palace.
Hagia Sophia mosque with minarets under cloudy sky with seagulls flying in Istanbul, Turkey.
Two children sitting in front of ornate wooden mosque doors framed by marble archway.
View through doorway of marble ablution fountain in courtyard of grand Ottoman mosque.
Traditional Turkish coffee served in ornate copper cup and saucer on decorative engraved tray.
Two people performing ritual washing at ornate marble fountain outside a mosque in Turkey.
Historic Yeni Cami mosque with twin minarets rising above Istanbul waterfront at golden hour.
Ancient Library of Celsus ruins at Ephesus with crumbling brick walls under clear blue sky.
Woman in hijab reads quietly in mosque interior with ornate door and colorful light patterns.
Woman walks past vibrant spice market stall with hanging dried peppers and colorful goods.